Ten things to say about gifts you don't like
10. Boy, if I had not recently shot up four sizes, that would've fit.
9. It would be a shame if the garbage man ever accidentally took this from me
8. Perfect for wearing in the basement.
7. Well, well, well...
6. I really don't deserve this.
5. Gosh, I hope this never catches fire!
4. I love it, but I fear the jealousy it will inspire.
3. If the dog buries it, I'll be furious!
2. Sadly, tomorrow I enter the federal witness protection program.
1. To think I got this the year I vowed to give all my gifts to charity.
Fremont, Uroboros, the non-System 96 part of Spectrum's product line, and Kokomo stained glass all seem to be COE 96. We've been playing around with fusing them, and have been pleased by the results.
You do need to do a test fuse first to be sure before putting a large piece into your kiln. Cut off a couple of small corners, and test fire with some 100SFS 3mm Clear. Mix them up, so one piece of the 100SFS is on the bottom and the piece of the glass in question is on top, and the reverse on the second. This should prove if the glass is COE 96, System 96, or not COE 96 by its appearance after firing. If both are glossy smooth on top, then it is System 96 compatible. If one of them has devitrification on the top but no cracks, then it is COE 96 and can be fired as long as it is capped by some System 96 glass. If both have cracked up, then the glass in question is not COE 96.
One catch is that you should fuse non-System 96 glass very slowly between 1000 to 1200 degrees, at a rate of 50 per hour. This will let most of the air escape from between the more irregular surfaced non-System 96 glass and the smoother System 96 glass. Do not try this with Spectrum's Silvercoats or regular Iridescent glass, as both will not enjoy the heat and make a mess in your kiln.