Friday Night Fusing Clinic
February 9th, 2007 ... Installing Glass and Ceramic Tiles (with Bob Seltitz from National Decor)
The objective for this clinic was to demonstrate how to install glass and ceramic tiles on a countertop and backsplash.
Tools required
- Ceramic tiles, fused glass tiles
Mortar (cement), adhesive ("Acrylic Pro") and non-sanded grout
Tile and/or glass cutters, PPG glass pliers, trowels and spacers
Wet tile saw
Preparation
- Fuse two layers of any compatible glass to produce desired size and number of tiles. We used 96 Uroboros 6556 iridescent with clear 100 SFS as a cap layer. Fuse directly on Lava Cloth or rough side of any fibre board or paper (note: ensure that the Lava Cloth has been fired once before fusing glass directly on it). Fusing the glass tiles directly on the Lava Cloth gives the bottom of the tile a textured finish – this rough surface promotes a quality bond.
- Determine pattern for tiled surface (keep drawing handy for reference). When calculating number of tiles required, take into consideration the width of the grout lines.
Floors and Countertops
- Ensure that you use floor tiles for floors and wall tiles for walls and backsplashes (floor tiles are thicker and heavier than wall tiles). Consult your supplier for proper tiles and trowels.
- Use mortar to install floor tiles. Use an acrylic adhesive, such as "Acrylic Pro" to install wall tiles. Ensure that you select the right mortar/adhesive for your application – indoor, outdoor, may freeze, may get wet, etc. Consult your supplier.
- Mix mortar and water as directed on package. Mortar should never be watery. If it is too watery, it will shrink as it cures.
- Apply mortar to floor or countertop surface using a trowel to spread using left-right and up-down motions. Ensure that the surface area is covered, but not too thickly. Always tile floor or countertop first, then the walls or backsplash.
- If using whole tiles as well as "cuts", center and place a whole tile first. Press it firmly into the mortar. Create the pattern by placing other tiles. Always work away from you – from closest point outward.
- Glass tiles are usually not as thick as ceramic floor tiles. To ensure an even surface, apply mortar directly onto the back of the glass tiles before applying to the surface. This will provide for the extra height required.
- Use chalk line to keep pattern straight.
- Ensure that grout line remains at a constant width.
- If you are going to edge the countertop with tile or molding, start with the molding and work in toward the centre.
- Allow mortar to dry for a minimum of 18 hours, then grout.
Wall or backsplash
- To create a backsplash, tile can be applied over a previously prepared surface (painted, etc.). For bathtub or shower surrounds, don't apply tiles to a previously finished surface. The tiled surface must be new and, as for any area where tile could get wet, that surface should be cement board, not drywall.
- For wall or backsplash, use an acrylic adhesive such as "Acrylic Pro". Use directly from the container. Apply to wall using a small trowel. Use same method as for mortar. Apply ceramic and glass tiles in the same manner, adding adhesive directly to backs of glass tiles to build up to correct height.
- Allow adhesive to dry for a minimum of 18 hours, then grout.
Replacing a Tile
- If you would like to replace a ceramic tile in an existing backsplash with a more artistic glass tile (and who wouldn't?), you can remove the tile by using a Dremel bit to loosen the grout around the selected tile. Then use hand tools to pry out the tile. Replace with glass tile by applying the adhesive directly to the back of the tile and positioning it in the backsplash. Allow adhesive to dry for a minimum of 18 hours, then grout.
Grout
- After mortar/adhesive has dried for at least 18 hours, remove excess mortar/adhesive from between the tiles. Apply grout to entire surface area ensuring that all grout lines are filled.
- With a damp sponge, wipe away remaining grout. Repeat until clean.
- Dry and apply sealer as required.